|
CLICK HERE FOR PRINTER
FRIENDLY VERSION
Installation Instructions
Gorilla-Lift Trailer Tailgate Lift Assist
Model # 40101042G
Call 1.877.388.8895 if you
have any questions or installation difficulties.
Warning
Caution
Parts List
Tools Required
Attaching to Side Rails
Installing the
spring/cable assemblies
Installing the rollers
Attaching to the
trailer’s tailgate
Trouble Shooting
Inspections
Replacement Parts
! WARNING
Always pin, latch or
lock the tailgate in its upright position;
this product is not a substitute for always doing so.
This product does not make the tailgate weight bearing;
the opened tailgate must always rest on firm ground.
Never raise or lower the tailgate while
anyone or anything is under the tailgate.
Keep hands away from all openings,
rollers or cables when product is in use.
! CAUTION
Due
to the many different sizes, weights and designs of trailers and tailgates on
the market today, some minor adjustments may be necessary to insure your
Gorilla-Lift works properly. Extreme caution must be taken, after the
initial installation of your Gorilla-Lift, to insure that it is working
properly. Check to make sure there is not too much or too little
tension on your tailgate. Never force the tailgate up or down, it
should travel with very little effort in both directions.
Always make sure that the rollers are turning
freely, and that the cable travels in the grooved portion of the rollers as it
operates. Please call our service department, toll free, at
1-877-388-8895 or visit our web site at www.Gorilla-Lift.com, if you have any
questions or problems with installation.
Thank you for purchasing
our product!
If
you have any trouble with installation, are missing any parts or have any
other questions, please call our customer service department, toll free, at
1.877.388.8895 or visit our web site at www.Gorilla-Lift.com. Please, do not
return to the store where you purchased the product, because they cannot help
you.
|
Parts List |
|
Quantity |
| A. |
housing with an angle cut on one end |
2 |
| B. |
housing with square cuts on both ends |
2 |
| C. |
5/16-inch x 2 1/2-inch mounting bolt |
8 |
| D. |
5/16-inch
flat washer |
8 |
| E. |
5/16-inch flanged lock nut |
8 |
| F. |
spring/cable assembly |
2 |
| G |
1/2-inch clevis pin |
2 |
| H. |
1/2-inch rue locking ring |
2 |
| I. |
grooved roller |
4 |
| J. |
1/4-inch clevis pin |
4 |
| K. |
1/4-inch flat washer |
8 |
| L. |
1/4-inch rue locking ring |
4 |
| M. |
1/2-inch x 5 1/2-inch gate attachment bolt |
2 |
| N. |
1/2-inch flanged lock nut |
4 |
| O. |
1/2-inch flat washer |
8 |
|
Tools Required |
|
|
§ Measuring Tape |
§
1/2-inch wrench |
|
§ Marker or punch |
§
3/4-inch wrench |
|
§ Heavy Duty
Power Drill |
§
Adjustable
wrench |
|
§ 1/2-inch metal
drill bit |
§ Needle nose
pliers or leatherman tool |
Before beginning this
installation, read the instructions thoroughly and
always make sure that
the trailer’s tailgate is pinned, latched or locked when in its upright
position.
Step 1, Attaching to the top of the trailer’s side rails:
1)
Important,
begin with the driver’s side of the trailer.
2)
Place and align
housing A (the one with a website sticker) & housing B (the one with a
Gorilla-Lift sticker) on top of the trailer’s side rail. Square and align the
bottom edge of Housing A’s angled end with the rear edge of the trailer’s side
rail. Make sure that the stickers are lined up on the same side and facing to
the outside of the trailer; that the housings are straight and tight against
each other; and that you are working on the driver’s side of the trailer.
3)
Remove housing A
from the side rail without disturbing the placement of housing B. Mark the
center of housing B’s mounting holes. Replace housing A onto your side rail
without disturbing the placement of housing B. Remove housing B without
disturbing the placement of housing A. Mark the center of housing A’s mounting
holes. Drill 1/2-inch holes down through the side rail where you made your
marks.
4)
Insert the
5/16-inch x 2 1/2 -inch mounting bolts through the mounting holes at the ends of
housings A & B where they come together. Place the Housings back on the rail,
while guiding the 5/16-inch x 2 1/2-inch mounting bolts through the appropriate
1/2-inch holes you just drilled into the side rail.
You must make sure that the mounting bolts are seeded all the way down
into their square holes and that they remain seeded when connecting and
tightening to the side rail; the oversized 1/2-inch holes that you drilled will
allow you to do this. If you do not follow this step, damage may occur to the
springs.
5)
Make sure, that
housings A & B are straight, even and tight against each other and that the
stickers are still aligned on the same side and facing to the outside of the
trailer.
6)
Insert the
5/16-inch x 2 1/2-inch mounting bolts through the mounting holes on the other
ends of housings A & B and through the 1/2-holes you just drilled into your side
rails. Then, put on and securely tighten the 5/16-inch flat washers and 5/16
flanged lock nuts, in that order, to all the mounting bolts.
Again making sure
that housings A & B are straight, even and tight against each other and the
mounting bolts are seeded all the way down into their square holes before
securely tightening all the mounting bolts.
7)
We recommend putting a very thin bead of clear silicone caulk where
housings A & B connect.
8)
Repeat step 2
through 7 to mount the Gorilla-Lift housings on the trailer’s other side rail.
Step
2, Installing the spring/cable assemblies:
1)
Slide a
spring/cable assembly into housings A & B, so that the springs are at the end of
housing B and the cable is coming out Housing A’s angled end.
2)
Insert a 1/2-inch
clevis pin into the rear hole of housing B; then run it through the looped ends
of both the inner and outer springs and out the other side of the
housing. Be sure you run the pin through the looped ends of both the
inner and outer springs. Slide a 1/2-inch flat washer onto the clevis
pin; then by using the needle nose pliers, secure the clevis pin with a 1/2-inch
rue locking ring. See figure 1 on page 2.
3)
Repeat steps 1
through 3 to install the other spring/cable assembly.
FIGURE 1, rue ring assembly

FIGURE 2, roller assembly 
see
figure 2
1)
Insert a 1/4-inch
clevis pin into the top hole at Housing A’s angled end; then run it through a
roller and out the side of the housing. Make sure the cable is lying under this
roller.
2)
Slide two
1/4-inch flat washers onto the clevis pin; then, using the needle nose pliers,
secure the clevis pin in place with a 1/4-inch rue locking ring. See figure
1 on page 2. You must use two flat washers on this clevis pin to secure it
properly.
3)
Raise the cable
and place a roller under it allowing the cable to rest in the groves; then
insert a 1/4-inch clevis pin into the bottom hole at the angled end of housing
A; next run it through the roller that you just positioned and out the other
side of the housing.
4)
Slide two
1/4-inch flat washers onto the clevis pin; then, using the needle nose pliers,
secure the clevis pin in place with a 1/4-inch rue locking ring. See figure
1 on page 2. You must use two flat washers on this clevis pin to secure it
properly.
5)
Make sure that
both rollers spin freely and that the clevis pins remain stationary. You will
want to double check this after the cables are attached to the tailgate and you
are operating the Gorilla-Lift.
6)
Repeat steps 1
through 5 to install the rollers on the other side.
For
standard height side rails, 12 to 15 inches tall:
1)
Measure the
complete height of your tailgate. Using the chart below as a guide, measure
from the rear, top edge of your side rail up along the side of your tailgate and
make a mark. You will make this mark on whichever side of the tailgate’s
side support angle/tube, that when the cable is attached to the tailgate,
will allow the cable to pull out of the housing and through the rollers in a
straight line; will allow the cable to travel in the grooved portion of the
rollers; and will not allow the cable to come in contact with the housing or
anything else as it operates.
|
tailgate height & construction
|
tailgate attachment point from the top of side rail |
|
4 feet, angle |
17 1/2-inches |
|
4 feet, tubing |
22 1/2-inches |
|
5 feet, angle |
26-inches |
|
5 feet, tubing |
28-inches |
|
6 feet, angle/tubing |
29 1/2-inches |
2)
Drill a 1/2-inch
hole through the gate’s side support angle/tube, where you made your mark.
3)
Slide a 1/2-inch
flat washer onto the 1/2-inch x 5 1/2-inch gate attachment.
4)
Slide the cable
thimble onto the 1/2-inch x 5 1/2-inch gate attachment bolt.
5)
Put one of the
1/2-inch flanged locking nuts, smooth end first, onto the 1/2-inch x 5 1/2-inch
gate attachment bolt and tighten the nut to the end of the threads. Then, put
on one of the 1/2-inch flat washers onto the bolt.
6)
Two people
may be necessary for steps 6 and 7.
Insert the gate attachment bolt into the hole that you just
drilled through the gate’s side support angle/tube.
7)
Slide the other
1/2-inch flat washer onto the bolt. Then, put on the other 1/2-inch flanged
lock nut, flanged side first, and tighten securely to the gate. The flanged
locking side of the two nuts should now be in contact with the two flat washers,
sandwiching your gate’s side support angle/tube between them.
8)
Repeat steps 1
through 7 on the other side of your tailgate.
For 24 inch tall side rails:
Initially, you can only attach the cable high enough
on both sides of your tailgate to take all the slack out of the cable.
The Gorilla-Lift
should now hold most standard tailgates stationary at any position and travel up
and down with very little effort. If it does not, you must increase or decrease
the tension, by raising or lowering the attachment points on your tailgate.
Never force the tailgate in either direction!
Trouble Shooting:
1) If you are having
trouble putting the rue locking rings on the clevis pins,
Ø
be sure you are using needle nose
pliers, and as you are pushing the ring on the pin gently rock it back and
forth.
2) If a roller is not
spinning freely,
Ø
check and see if there are metal
burrs or slivers inside the housing that the rollers could be catching on and
file them down smooth.
3) If your tailgate
and/or equipment are rubbing against or hitting the rue locking rings and clevis
pins,
Ø
change the direction of your pins
to where the rue locking rings are on the opposite side of the housing.
4) If there is too much
tension on your tailgate,
Ø
lower the point at which you have
the cable attached to your tailgate a few inches, but never low enough to allow
any slack in the cable.
5) If there is
significantly too much tension on your tailgate and/or it will not lower
all the way down or stay down,
Ø
put your tailgate in the upright
position and lock, pin or latch it to secure it there.
Ø
disconnect the cables from the
tailgate.
Ø
take the pins which are
connecting the springs to the housings out, and disconnect the smaller inner
springs from these pins.
Ø
reattach the larger springs to
the pins while pushing the smaller inner springs out of the way, then place the
pins back into their original positions and secure. After you make this
adjustment, you made need to change your gate attachment position.
Ø
If this corrects your problem,
you should remove the inner springs completely, leaving the larger outer springs
to do their job. Use heavy duty wire cutters to cut and remove them from the
cable thimbles; then slide them out.
Required Initial
and Monthly Inspections:
1)
Make sure that the cable is pulling out of the housing and through the
rollers in a straight line; that it is traveling in the grooved portion of the
rollers; and that it is not contacting the steel housing or any other obstacle
as it operates.
2)
Inspect the cable for any signs of damage or fraying. Replace the
spring/cable assembly, if either of these conditions exist.
3)
Make sure that all the bolts and hardware are tight, secure and in good
condition. This includes the roller clevis pins, which should be tight and not
allowed to turn in their holes, only the rollers should turn.
4)
Make sure that the housings are straight and aligned tightly against each
other.
5)
Make sure that the rollers are in good condition and spinning freely. If
the rollers are not spinning freely, clean them inside and out by wiping them
with a clean rag. If this does not correct the problem, check and see if there
are metal burrs or slivers inside the housing that the rollers could be catching
on and file them down smooth.
Never
use chemical cleaners or alcohol to clean the rollers; this will damage them.
Do not
lubricate the rollers; this will damage them.
They are made of a self lubricating material.
Replace worn rollers.
Additional Required Inspection:
After the initial two years of service and then every year thereafter, take the
springs out of the housing and check for cracks or excessive wear and tear.
Replace the spring/cable assembly, if either of these conditions exist.
Only use genuine Gorilla-Lift replacement
parts; see your local dealer or call 1.877.388.8895 to order.
Gorilla-Lift is a division of
BackSaver International, Inc., Somerset, Kentucky
|